Non solo vino e tartufi è lo zafferano l’oro rosso di Langa
L’impresa di due coltivatori per caso
La lavorazione dei fiori di zafferano a Monforte d’Alba
Pubblicato il 04/04/2017 La Stampa.it
PIERO DADONE
ALBA (CN)
Si vendemmia a ottobre, come il Barolo e i tartufi, ma produce una leccornia ancora più cara, fino a dieci volte i già preziosi funghi. È lo zafferano, crocus sativus, che da 4 anni fiorisce anche nel cuore delle Langhe, a Monforte d’Alba. Pioniere Roberto Lembo, 47 anni, con il socio Furio Dutto, 45, «safranisti» per hobby. Nel 2016 sono arrivati a produrre un chilo di «Safranum», stimme di zafferano del valore medio di 30.000 euro. Hanno dovuto coltivare, bio e a mano, 90.000 bulbi e raccogliere 150.000 fiori dal color violetto, sbocciati nel corso delle notti di un breve periodo, al sopraggiungere dei primi freddi di ottobre.
«In quei giorni ci mettiamo in ferie perché si lavora giorno e notte a raccogliere ed essiccare - dice Roberto Lembo, perito elettronico, sposato con la svizzera Anna, che lavora in una cantina a Barolo -. Perché i fiori appassiscono in fretta e dobbiamo estrarre subito i pistilli. Un impegno di pochi giorni che esige l’aiuto di amici e collaboratori. Si raccoglie dalle 4 alle 7, alle 8 le donne cominciano a estrarre i pistilli rossi dai fiori ammucchiati sul tavolo. L’“oro rosso” viene adagiato sui setacci ad essiccare». Furio è diplomato all’Isef di Torino, ma lavora in una ditta di termosanitari, abita a Mondovì con la moglie Patrizia. I coniugi Lembo risiedono in frazione Montagliato di Monforte dove Roberto con Furio coltiva lo zafferano, un ettaro di fronte al vecchio chiabotto ristrutturato, con vista sulle colline.
La scoperta
«Sentii parlare la prima volta di produzione di zafferano da Hervé Barbisan, erborista alsaziano - racconta Roberto -. Quando sei anni fa ci trasferimmo qui, mia moglie desiderava piantare tulipani e io andai a comprare i bulbi a Montà. Poi mi accorsi di essermi sbagliato, quel pacchetto conteneva bulbi di zafferano. Mi ricordai di Hervè e provai a interrarli. A ottobre i primi fiori, per cui contattai i produttori dell’altopiano di Navelli in Abruzzo, i principali produttori italiani. Mi vendettero i bulbi e mi aiutarono molto».
Le foglie dei bulbi assomigliano a quelle dell’erba cipollina e ora sono corte. Cresceranno a fine primavera, quando ogni bulbo ne genererà altri tre o quattro da trapiantare, togliendo continuamente le erbe infestanti. La fioritura a ottobre, quando in 435 ettari di vigne di Monforte si vendemmia il nebbiolo e i trifolau girano le colline con i cani alla ricerca dei tartufi bianchi. Ognuno mantiene il segreto su quanti ne raccoglie: il prezzo varia da 250 a 500 euro l’etto, 5000 al chilo.
L’anno scorso a Monforte si sono prodotte 3.118.000 bottiglie di nebbiolo, che stanno maturando a barolo. Circa 5440 litri per ettaro di un vino venduto sfuso da 8 euro al litro. Ma diventa «barolo» solo dopo almeno 38 mesi d’invecchiamento e con tante spese. Mentre Roberto e Furio non concimano né bagnano il campo a zafferano: costa il lavoro dell’ultima fase, ma poi il chilo rende subito sui 30.000 euro. L’hanno testato chef stellati, tra cui Redzepi del Noma di Copenaghen e Cingolani del Dulcis vitis di Alba. Con un chilo di pistilli essiccati si possono preparare fino a centomila risotti.
agentile
2017-04-04T16:53:03+00:00
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